Showing posts with label fish. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fish. Show all posts

Monday, February 23, 2009

Fish Tank Sand Pros and Cons - Should You Use Sand Or Gravel?

Fish tank gravel is what most people use to cover the floor of their fish tanks. While gravel is a popular choice, there is also aquarium sand available at pet retailers and online fish supply stores. Aquarium sand can give your aquarium a tropical look, but fish tank gravel is economical and easier to use. The best decision for your tank can only be made after you weigh the pros and cons.

Gravel is the easiest fish tank floor covering to use. It comes in many different colors that you can use to customize the look of your tank. You can have everything from neon green and pink to natural looking grey and brown stones.

Gravel is also easier to clean. You can use a gravel vacuum during the cleanup process to suck up small bits of debris and waste. The vacuum will eliminate the tiny pieces while still leaving the gravel intact on the fish tank floor.

On the other hand, gravel shifts a lot more than sand does. If you plan on using live plants in your aquarium design, you may find that they will become disheveled and uprooted over time. It can also display pockets and needs to be smoothed out from time to time.

Aquarium sand is a bit trickier to use. You must turn off the filter on your tank when you first start to use the sand. It is very cloudy to begin with and you have to give it time to settle. You also may need to get an upgraded filter that won't get stuck on the tiny sand particles. Debris shows up much more clearly with sand than it does with gravel.

On the positive side, live plants root well in the sand surface. Sand gives a much more professional look to your tank. It's also an aesthetically pleasing choice if you have a tank with tropical fish.

If you would like to read much more Fish Care Advice visit http://www.FishCareTips.com/ where we provide expert advice on various fish care topics!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joshua_Spaulding


Saturday, February 21, 2009

Fish Tank Cleaning - How to Properly Clean a Freshwater Fish Tank

Cleaning a fish tank is an important part of owning an aquarium. Your fish need a clean environment to live if you want them to stay healthy and happy. Excess food and fish feces build up over time, which eventually turn into harmful ammonia, so it's important to keep your tank clean not only for its appearance, but for the health of your fish.

Getting on a good fish tank cleaning schedule will help you avoid algae build up and make it easier to clean the tank each time that you do. You can do a routine clean up in about a half an hour. Cleaning your tank on a weekly basis is the best way to stay on top of the grime and keep your fish healthy.

Many people mistakenly believe that you have to drain the whole tank and replace the water each time you clean the take. Actually, completely cleaning an aquarium can be harmful to the fish. As the fish live in the tank, good bacteria that cuts down on disease starts to grow in the tank. When a tank is cleaned from top to bottom, you remove these good bacteria, putting your fish in harm's way.

You need to regularly replace 10 to 50 percent of the water that is in the tank on a regular basis. Most people do 25 percent. This way you'll be able to add fresh water without completely removing the good bacteria. If there are algae on the sides of the tank you can use a scrubber but don't remove all of the algae because it is natural to their environment and very healthy for them.

Make sure to check the filter for debris, but don't replace it each time you clean. Good bacteria build up in the filter as well so you'll only want to replace it when you absolutely have to. Just use a clean bucket full of chlorine-free water and rub your hands across the filter several times to get the bulk sludge and slime off, that's it!

When decorative items become stained you can remove them from the tank and soak them in a 10 percent bleach solution for 15 minutes, use a brush and be sure to rinse them thoroughly before replacing them! If you do not rinse them thoroughly you could easily kill all of your fish!

Finally, replace the filter, the decorative items and add new water, remembering to use some type of water treatment solution to remove all chlorine. It's also a good idea to add a little conditioning salt to prevent disease.

If you would like to learn much more about proper Fish Tank Care visit http://www.FishCareTips.com/ where we provide expert advice on that and much more!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joshua_Spaulding


Thursday, February 19, 2009

Betta Fish Diseases

Fish diseases are broadly classified in to Bacterial, Environmental and Parasitic diseases. Microorganisms are present everywhere in the tank. However, the problem occurs when your Betta Fish is restless.

Betas are more prone to infection because of low resistant power. This causes a drastic change in their health and wellness that may result in death, if ignored.

Environmental diseases imply the surroundings, where your Betta Fish dwells. Adequate care and cleanliness of the fish tank help to keep the fungus and microorganisms away from your Betta fish.

Types of Diseases:

Parasites are small creatures and Oƶdinium is the most common disease-causing parasite in Bettas. In addition, bugs can literally make your Betta fish sick. Ichthyophthirius multifilis is also a kind of parasitic disease occurring in Betta fish.

Following are some of the Betta Fish diseases that come in the above-discussed three types.

Unionized Ammonia (NH3)

This is an environmental disease referred as Ammonia poisoning in simple terms. It occurs due to the below mentioned factors:

1. A new unhygienic tank
2. Many fishes dwelling in the same tank
3. Frequent water change
4. Filtration problems

Symptoms are as follows:

1. Fish struggling for oxygen
2. Rests at the bottom of the tank
3. Bleeding gills
4. Reddish streaks on the fins
5. Weakness and stationary
6. No food intake

To keep your Betta Fish healthy, you need to take regular care of the fish. If ignored, the poisoning will hurt and break the tissues of fish, resulting in red blood scratches all over the body. In long run, the central nervous system and brain might also deteriorate leading to death.

Flexibacter Columnaris

This is a bacterial disease also known as Mouth Fungus, Flexibater, Cotton Mouth, and simply Columnaris. It is usually found in catfish and live bearing Betta fishes.

Symptoms are as follows:

1. Fish making water unclean frequently
2. Low appetite with no nutritional value
3. Stress
4. White spots occurring all over the body
5. Rotten fins
6. Fungus on the affected area

The bacteria enter the fish from mouth, injured areas, bruises, and gills. It is a communicable disease resulting in death. The bacteria multiply drastically. The disease progresses quickly in high water temperatures, and hence lowering the temperature is not a solution to deal with this condition.

Oodinium Pilularis

This is a parasitic disease also called as Gold rust Disease or Velvet. Oodiniums are parasites, which are capable of eradicating the entire Betta fish population in your tank.

Symptoms are as follows:

1. Fish rubbing against objects
2. Sluggishness
3. Frequent and quick gill movement
4. Weight loss
5. Compressed and closed fins

L. CLARK is a successful publisher of http://www.betafishcareguide.com/ WEBMASTERS you may publisher this article provide you leave the link in place.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Leonard_Clark_Jr


Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Problems Caused by Ammonia and Nitrite in Ponds

You'll never see the two biggest killers of fish and plants lurking in your pond. Chances are, you'll find struggling plants and fish long before you realize these troublesome components are in your water. Unfortunately, for many pond owners, the deadliest threats to their ponds are silent, quick and invisible.

Water quality is the cornerstone of a healthy clear pond. Without healthy water, your fish and plants won't last very long, and your pond will become more of an eyesore than a pleasure. Great water quality all comes back to properly balanced biological filtration. In a properly "cycled" pond, water never contains ammonia or nitrites. However, new ponds and ponds in crisis will exhibit signs of biological imbalance. These signs include ammonia and nitrite concentrations above zero.

High ammonia has three main culprits: in new ponds, with large bacteria die-off or when there's a drastic pH change in your water. In a new pond, high ammonia levels are part of the cycling process. You will see high ammonia until beneficial bacteria are established in your filter and substrate. Until you see ammonia levels drop, your pond is not ready for fish.

Many well-meaning fish keepers kill the beneficial bacteria in their pond by over-cleaning their filters (i.e. rinsing filter pads in tap water or replacing the entire filter pad). Always use pond water to clean your filter pad and change the filter pads gradually- never all at once.

At lower pH levels (under 5.8) ammonia becomes ammonium, a harmless by-product of waste. Left without water changes, ponds become acidic as waste builds up and minerals are depleted. When the pH is brought back up to neutral (i.e. during a large water change), ammonium turns back into ammonia and creates a massive die-off of fish and plants. If you haven't completed a water change in your pond for months, be careful about doing one large water change. Instead, use small water changes over several days to slowly bring your pH back to neutral.

When you have high ammonia levels in your pond (greater than 1 ppm), you'll see your fish gasping at the surface of your pond for air. Often, fish also have enflamed gills and refuse to eat. If you see your fish having these problems in your pond, immediately treat with an ammonia neutralizer or remove the fish to an alternate tank or pond. If all else fails, buy a clean trash can and use this as an alternative tank until you balance your pond's water quality.

High nitrite levels have two culprits: in new ponds and when there's a bacteria die-off. If you have a new pond, you will see an ammonia spike followed by a nitrite spike. Eventually, nitrifying bacteria will establish themselves in your filter to turn these nitrites to nitrates. Nitrites are very toxic to fish, while nitrates are harmless. Like ammonia, you can have a nitrite spike if you over-clean your filters in tap water or replace all your filter pads at the same time.

If you have high nitrite levels (above .5 ppm), you will see your fish gasping at the surface of the water. Their gills will turn brown (instead of red) and they will usually look much darker than normal (especially koi). If you notice these symptoms, immediately add aquarium salt per the dosing instructions on the package! Aquarium salt will save your fish's lives by neutralizing the ion that attacks your fish's blood when you have high nitrite levels. After you have added aquarium salt, you can control the nitrite levels with water changes until the nitrite levels drop again.

Casey Coke is a Marketing Manager for Natural Environmental Systems, LLC, a global supplier of microbial pond supplies and distributor of pond filters and other equipment.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Casey_Coke


Monday, February 16, 2009

Arowana Introduction and Info

Arowana fishes has been known for many years. they are the king of tropical fish. Asian tropical fishes are very well liked and longed by all hobbyist so that the market price is stable and tend to increase over time. Why is This so? Beacuse arowanas are difficult to breed and one breeder can only produce 30 to 60 fishes and not all breeder will produce eggs. So there is thendency that demand is greater than supply. Furthermore, the natural environment that is required for breeding arowanans only exist in few Asian countries, mainly in Indonesia.

Is arowana still in their natural habitat? It is difficult to answer. If still exist, we migth not see them, because of its scarcity. Currently, arowanas can only be seen in the farm for breeding, some farms has produced up to F5 to avoid its extinction.

Arowana super red are originally from lake Sentarum, This lake flow into kapuas river located in West Borneo. There are a lot of arowana farms, small into big farms. Super red arowana is the hardest to breed outside its habitat. Golden Mahato arowana was originally from Siak river in Pekanbaru. It has gold color scales and at a glance is similar to Cross Back Golden Malaysia. These two are Indonesian arowana trademark, which are very sought after by all arowana fans in Indonesia and Worldwide.

Some Indonesian arowanas include super red, red tail golden, golden mahato, banjar red, and green arowana. Indonesian tropical climate is very suitable for arowana breeding. water is the most critical element in arowana breeding, water source is not a problem in Indonesia. Eg, there is kapuas river "The Natural Habitat Arowana" in Kalimantan and Riau, there are a few small river, so water source is widely available.

A few countries who are the main market for Indonesian arowana production : Japan, China, Thaiwan, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysian and Korea.

There is no doubt, arowana are Indonesia's pride that we have to preserve; as Indonesia is the biggest arowana produce in the world...

Andrew Pangkawira - EzineArticles Expert Author

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Consider This Before Proceeding "To Grow a Reef'

I have been a hobbiest for over half my life. I have experienced firsthand the many pitfalls which contributed to the notion of abandoning the marine home aquarium. Although moving on was an option I seemed to always be drawn to the beauty, the diversity and challenges which this hobby has to offer.

I learned that there is an element in reef keeping which when ignored contributes to failure. The failure was neglecting to consider the long term cost in creating a reef feature, and mentally establishing the time and effort it takes in maintaining a reefscape.

Most people are unaware that the aquarium itself, the filters, pumps, and lights are the cheapest and least time consuming aspect of the maintaining a saltwater feature. True, top quality equipment is high ticket items up front but in the long run are the cheapest. My advice is this: This hobby is expensive, and in some areas, you just can't cut corners. If you can't afford it, don't get involved with it. The 'junk' equipment stems from this often ignored fact.

Second, and probably more critical is the time and energy it takes to maintain a reefscape.
The statement: "Too many people 'dive' into setting up a reef like a fresh water system- buying an aquarium, filling it with de-chlorinated water, adding the animals, and then expecting it to thrive like that in the ocean", demonstrates exactly the mentality of reef keeping. (This may work with goldfish or guppies, but it's not going to work for SW.)

There are two types of people in this hobby: Those who are dedicated and those who are caught up in the "cool" phase. From the reefers I have met who have long term satisfying success in this hobby have a deep understanding that a reef tank requires maintenance (time) and upkeep (money). This hobby requires dedication and very few people who get into it are truly dedicated. This is comparable to owning a puppy. It needs to be walked, fed, brushed, groomed, vet visits, etc... Reef keeping is akin to this. There is some instant instant gratification but a nice reef and long term enjoyment takes time and diligent dedication to establish.

In conclusion, if one desires to 'grow a reef' he or she must take 3-6 months to research and develop a plan which takes into account the due diligence in maintaining and growing a reef for long term. If this small step proves too difficult to achieve then maybe another hobby should be chosen. Avoiding research and planning leaves one vulnerable to the real pitfall, mainly, impulse buying.

My next article will attempt to offer basic course of action and strategies to aid in the long term satisfaction of growing a reef.

Dan Owensby

Aquarium hobby since 1968. Marine and reef experience since 1980. My aquarium was the feature aquarium in the 1994 issue of the FYI section of the Kansas City Star. I own and operate PrimeReef Aquatics since 2005. Moderator on http://www.easymeters.com/ forum.

http://www.primereefaquatics.com/ - primereefaquatics.com supplies top quality products, livestock and advice for the serious hobbiest. Their goal is to aid in the advancement and enjoyment of growing a reef. Unlike most suppliers they are interested in the quality of growing a reef not solely the profit of it. For your long term enjoyment of your captive reef system please visit my website at the above link for top quality products.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dan_Owensby


Thursday, February 12, 2009

Discus Fish Info - Things You Ned to Know About Discus Fish

Anybody who is thinking of creating a tropical aquarium for their discus fish needs the right info, information on discus is freely available on the Internet, in books, magazines, and guides. A majority of the information that is found online about discus fish comes from other people like yourself that have taken a keen interest in this specific breed of fish as at first hobby and have then taken there experiences and put them out online. Due to this, the discus information that is available to on the internet is the work of experienced discus fish keepers helping you in creating the ideal habitat for your fish needs.

If you are in need of some kind of special information it is always best to seek advice from a few different sources. Search for a variety of discus fish info sites and check that solution they offer to your problems or worries match up to each other. If you find a couple of sites that give different advice within the discus information you were looking for, the best things to do is either speak to a vet or pet shop owner or check the info with a well-known information guide or book . Not all health problems are treated the same, depending on the circumstances that created a discus type of ailment.

Additionally, information on these fish will always be useful in finding out all the day to day needs it takes to create the perfect aquarium for keeping your fish. From thing like the water nitration and filter to picking the best vegetation, discus info is a top priority, especially when you think that every kind of fish that you can think of has its own habits. What do you think would happen if you just put together all sorts of different varieties of fish that as a rule are not able to mix in the same environment? Lack of knowledge of discus fish info will possibly lead to your fish dying and will be a big waste; that's why it's better to search out for all the facts first instead of trying to figure out what to do the right way day by day.

Finally, online forums are always an excellent way to find the info you need on your fish. If you ever need to change or improve anything in the aquarium, be certain to get all the discus fish info you need to help keep your fish healthy and safe and stop any type of disease or any other type of damage to your new pets. If you do not complete the minimum safety standards it can have a drastic affect on your pets, so, make sure you keep updated.

There are plenty of information sources to learn more discus fish info and their breeding that will definitely assist you in satisfying the needs of your discus fish.
To find out more visit Discus Fish Info
Always stay informed on the feeding and breeding habits of your Discus Fish.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jimmy_Howard


Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Setting Up Saltwater Aquariums - Beginner Tips For New Saltwater Tanks

Anyone interested in setting up saltwater aquariums is more then likely nervous and over whelmed with the amount of work involved in the process. As hard as they seem saltwater aquariums are not as hard as they look, they just need to be planned and set up correctly. The tips below will cover some of the more common areas beginners make mistakes in.

Tips For a Successful Saltwater Tank

Buy Slightly Larger Filters Then You Need- The filter system is by far the most important piece of equipment on your saltwater tank. It is responsible for providing clean clear water plus it is also responsible for water circulation. When shopping for your filter keep in mind that most manufactures will over rate their products ability by at least 10%. With this in mind always buy a slightly larger filter and you will have less problems down the road.

Buy The Right Sized Tank- The tank is the foundation of your saltwater system. This foundation can be made more stable with a larger tank. Factors like salinity levels, water temperature and other chemical aspects of the fishes environment will be more consistent and less subject to change with a tank in the range of 40-75 gallons. And consistency and stability are critical to keeping healthy saltwater fish.

Do Not Over Stick Your Tank- Adding to many fish into a saltwater aquarium is a recipe for disaster that will lead to algae and dead fish. This is because unlike freshwater fish marine fish are very territorial and need ample space to feel less stress. While some fish are not as territorial as others you should still stick to a basic rule of one average sized saltwater fish per ten gallons of tank volume you should be okay. Down the road as your skills increase you can try to add more but always add new fish slowly and wait a few weeks in between new additions.

To create a stunning and easy-to-maintain saltwater aquarium grab a copy of our Saltwater Aquarium Guide. This illustrated guide will show you step by step how to properly set up your aquarium. It's crammed with tips and secrets that the pros use to create stunning displays! Learn more at http://www.saltwatermethods.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darin_Sewell


Saturday, February 7, 2009

A Well-Balanced Saltwater Fish Tank

Saltwater tanks are more difficult to maintain because marine life inside has little tolerance to fluctuations. They are used to a stable habitat underwater. Therefore, the key to maintaining saltwater aquarium is copying the general conditions of the sea to your tank such that the marine fishes hardly notice the difference.

It is very useful to study marine life and science of it to start this hobby. It may be quite difficult at first, but if you understand the ecosystem underwater, this hobby will be easier and more interesting for you.

The tank needs a huge amount of water to make it more stable and absorbs shock more easily. This prevents disturbing the equilibrium of water and makes the tank more peaceful for marine life.

For instance, a dead fish will only create a minor imbalance in a big tank, but if it dies in a small tank, there will be dramatic changes.

Nutrient cycles are important to sustain a tank. First, dissolved oxygen comes in to the system over the water-air interface or by the activity of an air pump. The second one is the carbon dioxide which goes out of the system into the air. Other significant nutrient cycles are phosphate cycle, iron, sulfur, and micronutrients. These enter as food and escaping as waste substances.

Water conditions should be checked. Keep it free from dirt. Dead fish or other decaying corals should be removed at once to avoid contaminating the tank. Also check water salinity. It shouldn't be too salty.

The saltwater is an alkaline, and the pH is the alkalinity or acidicity of fresh water. However, the hardness calculates total dissolved mineral content. In addition, the hard water is often alkaline and the soft water is always acidic. Other significant factors are dissolved organic content and dissolved gases content.

Chloramine is commonly used today because it is more stable. A saltwater fish tanks also need the presence of a mixture of salts and other minerals.

Other tanks are adapting to other water sources also. They change the alkaline content of water, the hardness, or dissolved content of gases and organics before putting it to the fish tank. Additives like sodium bicarbonate also help to raise pH.

The water that would be placed in the fish tank may also be filtered or purified in two different ways: deionization or reverse osmosis.

The water's temperature creates the basis of one of the two primary fish tank classifications. These are the tropical and cold water. Most water plants and animals can only adapt with a limited range of water temperatures. It is important that the temperature is consistent to minimize fatalities in the tank. Use a thermostat and heater unit or cooling unit to help regulate the water temperature.

Water movement is also significant in perfectly imitating a natural environment. This can be manipulated by the use of aeration from powerheads, air pumps, and proper design of internal water flow like the path of the filtration system points of inflow and outflow.

For more information on Saltwater fish tanks and Saltwater Lighting please visit our website.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Urmann


Monday, February 2, 2009

The Attractive Cherry Barb

The Cherry Barb is a favorite tropical fish of many aquarium enthusiasts. Their lively nature and attractive coloring help to make them popular.

The male is especially adorned because of his red coloring which turns even a deeper red during the spawning period. The female Cherry Barb is a duller version of the male, ranging somewhere between light orange and yellow. Both sexes have a dark horizontal stripe along their body. Females are more plump than males, but the male is longer, growing up to 2 inches in length.

A lone Cherry Barb will most certainly become stressed. They are most content in a group of six or more. Other non-aggressive fish, such as Danios, female Bettas, Corydoras and Rainbow fish can be housed with the Cherry Barbs.

It is important to keep the Barbs in a 20-gallon aquarium, minimum. The water should be slightly acidic with the pH value being 6.5 - 7.5. The temperature should be 73 - 80 degrees Farhenheit. Plenty of plant life is also a requirement for the Cherry Barb aquarium. They love to swim in and through plants.

Flakes are a suitable food for Cherry Barbs, but give them brine shrimp, vegetable or blood worms as occasional treats. You will see them often nibbling on the plants as well, which makes them good light algae eaters.

During the spawning period the male will become a deeper shade of red and you will see him erect his fins and begin to circle other males as if in a competition. Soon he will be "dancing" with a female. She then starts the process of scattering over 200 eggs onto plants and stones. The male will follow behind her, fertilizing the eggs.

Don't worry about suddenly having 200 fry in your tank, as certainly not all will survive, due partly to the fact that the adults will eat the eggs. You can increase the chance of some fry survival by keeping the aquarium well planted. Fry instinctively hide among plants. Java moss works well for hiding.

During the fry's first few days they live off their yolk-sac. When they are 5 days old, offer them microworms. About 3 weeks later you can begin to wean them from the "baby" food as they are now ready for flaked food.

With good care, these newly hatched fry should live for 4 or 5 years.

The Cherry Barb is relatively easy to care for, making this energetic fish a good choice for the beginner aquarium enthusiast.


Saturday, January 31, 2009

How Much Will a Saltwater Aquarium Cost to Setup? The Cost of Setting Up Saltwater Tanks Examined

Setting up a saltwater tank costs money, that fact cannot be argued. Most people think that it will take a lot of money and this keeps them away from the hobby. But figuring out how much will a saltwater aquarium cost is not that hard and the article below will help you understand the costs involved with setting up and caring for a saltwater tank.
How Much Will a Saltwater Aquarium Cost To Setup
While figuring out your marine aquarium setup to the penny would be pretty tough you can get a very close estimate of the overall cost by using a cost per gallon factor. If you are setting up a marine aquarium that will only have fish in it you can easily use the number of $20-$25 per tank gallon.
If you are setting up a reef aquarium the added equipment can drive this number to around $35 per tank gallon. The reef tank can go much higher then this if you are buying very high end equipment or exotic corals.
The above prices will give you a good estimate and should get you a tank that is completely set up ready to go with a basic fish or two. Additional fish will obviously add more money but because the prices of saltwater fish vary alot it is hard to gauge the extra expense they will add.
How Much To Maintain My Saltwater Aquarium
The cost involved to take care of marine aquariums will be different for each tank. But as a general rule of thumb the average saltwater tank will cost about $.50-$1 per tank gallon to run and maintain. A reef aquarium will be much more and you will be safe to figure in around $1.50-$2 per tank gallon in operating and maintenance costs each month.
To create an easy-to-maintain saltwater aquarium grab a copy of our Saltwater Aquarium Guide. This illustrated guide will show you step by step how to properly set up your aquarium. It's crammed with tips and secrets that the pros use to create stunning aquariums! Learn more at http://www.saltwatermethods.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darin_Sewell

BiOrb - The Aquarium of the Future

There is no getting beyond it. As far as care for the humble Goldfish is concerned boy have times have changed and how have they changed.
OK Hands up those who if asked who would know what a biOrb is? Well the answer would be is that a biOrb is the future as far as a home for our domestic friend the Goldfish is concerned.
No longer content with a simple bowl made from simple glass with the odd throw away from Grannies house clearance lurking in the bottom no sirree, the Goldfish has moved on to bigger and better things and a closer in section of what exactly a biOrb does will give us a clearer understanding of why.
Firstly you have to consider the technology involved here and it has to be said that this is quite impressive. All biOrb Aquariums utilize a unique five -stage system to improve and maintain water quality and clarity. This, as keen owners of tropical fish will be only too ready to Admit is essential in the healthy welfare of our fishy friends.
The optimized water is better and stays clearer for much longer than conventional systems. The five-stage process includes biological, mechanical and chemical filtration along with water stabilization and 100% oxygenation.
One of the other interesting and revealing things about a biOrb is that they are made out of Acrylic as opposed to conventional glass. Now Acrylic is a clear plastic that looks similar to glass but has properties that make it superior to glass. All biOrbs are constructed out of acrylic and this enables the biOrb to be stronger, much lighter and have an overall superior finish compared to similar aquariums made out of glass.
One of the other benefits of acrylic over glass is that acrylic is much more shock absorbent than glass which in turn means that all acrylic aquariums are much more able to withstand the shocks and accidental bumps that occur from time to time without breaking.
But being lighter and stronger is about much more than that.
Being lighter means that biOrbs are approximately 50% lighter than conventional glass aquariums and the knock on effect is that it would be difficult if not impossible for someone to carry a 60 litre for emptying whereas the 60 litre biOrb is within the ability of a strong person to pick up, carry and empty.
Being stronger means that the acrylic biOrbs are up to 17 times as strong as conventional glass aquariums and this considerably decreases the chance of the aquarium breaking. It is a little known fact that one inch thick acrylic is actually bullet proof. The other thing and benefit to acrylic is that it can be drilled and worked with without the possibility of it shattering and becoming completely useless.
Lastly the finish on acrylic aquariums is actually superior to glass aquariums and the added benefit is that if scratched, an acrylic aquarium can be polished and restored whereas its glass counterpart, if scratched remains scratched.
There is a whole lot more to biOrb aquariums and this will be discussed at later briefings.
Stephen Morgan writes regularly on all matters concerning Pets and Leisure and more information on the biOrb and Aquariums in general can be found at http://www.reef-one.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stephen_Morgan

Friday, January 30, 2009

Have a Cloudy Saltwater Aquarium? - How to Make Your Saltwater Fish Tank Clear Again

Nothing looks better then a crystal clear saltwater aquarium. Unfortunately many saltwater fish keepers cannot get rid of their cloudy water and never have truly crystal clear marine aquariums. The tips below will help you understand why your saltwater aquarium water is cloudy and what you can do to make it clear again.

Why Saltwater Fish Tank Water Gets Cloudy

There are two main reasons that your saltwater fish tank water will be cloudy. Those two reasons are bacterial blooms and excessive debris in your water

The bacterial blooms are the direct result of over feeding your fish or over stocking your tank. The excess waste that to many fish and rotting fish food produce will break down and will feed the bacteria.

To much debris in the water usually comes from filters that are not strong enough or not cleaned frequently enough to do a good job.

How To Make Your Marine Aquarium Water Clear Again

First examine the amount of fish you have in your tank. You should really only have one average size fish for every 8-10 gallons of tank volume. If you have alot more then this you may need to remove one or two saltwater fish to get the stocking levels back within an acceptable range.
Also make sure to shut off all pumps and filters when you feed and add your fish and add food slowly. This will give the fish the best chance at getting all the food and it will not be blown around.

Take a look at your filter system as well and make sure the filters you have are rated for the tank size you have. If they are to small you may need to upgrade to larger more efficient filters.
Make sure to clean your filters at least every two weeks to get rid of trapped debris and fish waste that can add to bacterial blooms. You may need to clean them more frequently if they are slightly underpowered.

To create a stunning saltwater aquarium grab a copy of our Saltwater Aquarium Guide. This illustrated guide will show you step by step how to properly set up your aquarium. It's crammed with tips and secrets that the pros use to create stunning saltwater displays! Learn more at http://www.saltwatermethods.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darin_Sewell

How to Take Care of a Saltwater Aquarium and Have Healthy Saltwater Fish

If you are wondering how to take care of a saltwater aquarium its really pretty easy. Although there are a few things you need to keep an eye on in order to have a stunning marine aquarium and healthy saltwater fish.

Change The Water- Saltwater fish tanks need frequent water changes in order to keep harmful compounds to a minimum. It is recommended that you change at least 25% of the water on a monthly basis. This does not all have to be done at once and is better if you split it up into two or three water changes over the course of a month.

Salt Levels- Saltwater fish tanks will evaporate water just like a freshwater tank. The only downside is that in a saltwater tank the salt levels rise as freshwater evaporates out. You must make sure to replace any evaporated water every few days to keep your salinity levels constant and within range or your fish can get stressed out and sick.

Nitrate Levels- High nitrate levels in a saltwater fish tank can cause a lot of problems that will make keeping your tank much harder. These problems include sick fish and problem algae growth. By testing your water weekly you will be able to pick up on any increases in nitrates and take evasive measures before it becomes a problem.

Temperature- Saltwater fish are very sensitive to changes in their environment and the biggest change that can cause them to get sick is temperature swings. You will need to check the tanks temperature daily to make sure it is not to hot or cold. This is very important during summer and winter. If the temperature gets to hot the oxygen levels will drop and the fish can die. To cold and the fish will not be able to survive and will perish quickly in cold water.

To create a stunning and easy-to-maintain saltwater aquarium grab a copy of our Saltwater Aquarium Guide. This illustrated guide will show you step by step how to properly set up your aquarium. It's crammed with tips and secrets that the pros use to create stunning displays! Learn more at http://www.saltwatermethods.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darin_Sewell

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Tips to Lower Nitrates in Saltwater Aquarium and Have Healthy Saltwater Fish in an Algae Free Tank

Having lower nitrates in a saltwater aquarium is critical to having healthy colorful saltwater fish and also for keeping nuisance aquarium algae to a minimum. High nitrates in your tank can usually be traced to a few key factors which are discussed below.

How to Lower Nitrates In a Saltwater Aquarium
Feed Carefully- Feeding your saltwater fish is something that has to be done but simply throwing some food in the tank is not the proper way to do it and can lead to higher nitrates if uneaten food gets trapped in filters or blown into areas were it will be left to rot.

instead you should shut off all filters and pumps and add small amounts making sure the fish consume it all. Do this for a few minutes or until your saltwater fishes bellies appear round and full.

Have The Proper Fish Load- Overstocking your salt water fish tank is a guaranteed way to have high nitrates and the problems that come with them. This is a common problem especially among new salt water fish tank owners.

To avoid overstocking make sure that you start out with one smaller fish per ten gallons of tank water volume. Slowly add fish a few weeks apart and make sure to test your nitrates during those few weeks. When you find your nitrates have started to rise after a new fish addition you cannot add anymore and are at the stocking limit of your tank.

Increase Tank Maintenance- Make sure to change your saltwater frequently and vacuum the gravel to remove any settled debris. Also make it a habit to change your filter pads every one to two weeks to remove the fish waste and uneaten food that will start to decay and add nitrates. By increasing the frequency that you clean your aquarium filters and change your tanks water you will be removing the things that cause high nitrates.

To create a stunning and easy-to-maintain saltwater aquarium grab a copy of our Saltwater Aquarium Guide. This illustrated guide will show you step by step how to properly set up your aquarium. It's crammed with tips and secrets that the pros use to create stunning displays! Learn more at http://www.saltwatermethods.com/
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